Saturday, November 19, 2011

I did my part. National Ammo Day

1050 rounds of Golden Bullet. Blazer was less (seen below) but I don't like having lead all over my hands. Of note, the Winchester gun was works on pistols, revolvers, rifles, shotguns, and automatic weapons. I find it interesting that they used "automatic weapons." As if normal solvent doesn't work on your NFA items.

Dunham's continues to amaze me with their pricing. $17.99 for a 525 of Golden Bullet, $4,00 for a 50 pack

Winchester 333 as much as Remington 525. That's $27 for 525 of Winchester 333.

$27.50 for 500 for tactical 22. Call it tactical and charge more.

Remember how the 50 round packs were $1.49. 525 pack pricing makes no sense.

Bazer costing more than plated bullets.

100oz coffee mug seen next door to the Dunham's
How Dunhams makes money with this absurd pricing boggles the mind.

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

S&W M&P 15-22 Firing Pin Spring Swap for the Timney 3lb Trigger

First step. Remove bolt as usual for an AR15. Separate the bolt from the carrier
Separate the bolt from carrier by pressing reward on the bolt. You can see the little slot on the carrier lines up with a slot on the guide rod. While pushing reward on the bolt, slide the rod up using the notch to free it. Retrieve spring that will fly across the room if you don't catch it.

Locate firing pin cotter pin. It is silver and in the middle of the bolt lined up with the thing that holds the guide rod in place. The dark colored thing on the right is the ejector. Don't mess with this.

This is the other side of the firing pin retaining cotter pin. Use an appropriately sized punch or broken allen wrench to tap it out. I suggest using brass, since these roll pins are easily damaged if you use an undersized punch. Tap it out to the other side.

After you have punched the cotter pin out the firing pin and spring should come free. Remove it and its spring. The guide rod guidepost will also fall out. It has holes in it for the firing pin and cotter pin. These will need to be realigned to reinstall the parts.

Original firing pin spring (fps). Sorry its upside down. All measurements in millimeters.

Diameter of original FPS

Diameter of new FPS

Length of new FPS. Notice the number of coils per cm. Much less, therefore less pressure necessary for the spring to be compressed. Picked these up from the local ACO hardware. Made by Hillman. DO NOT bother going to Lowes or Home Depot, they don't have them. I bought 6 in case I needed to experiment with them.

Reinstall everything in reverse order. Be sure to use a brass punch for the cotter pin so you don't dent it. Make sure that the recess in the firing pin lines up with the cotter pin. You'll have to slightly push in the firing pin while driving in the cotter pin to get them to line up.


Do this by using a shell that has been fired or better by removing the bullet and powder. Load the shell into the chamber by hand. Rip the bolt back and let it fly a bunch of times. Make sure you haven't just created an open bolt gun.

Lastly, make sure to test some already fired shells or ones with no powder or primer when going back to the old hammer. You may get too much of a strike or pierce the primer with the lighter spring and the OEM hammer.

This is why the firing pin is now inertia driven:

S&W redesigned the FP system after this started happening.

Let me know how it works for you.